Wednesday, February 13, 2013
Vacation Challenge - Week Three begins
I'm counting days until vacation now. "And the number of the counting shall be 10." Week Three is off to a great start. I found some off-white linen-look cotton poly fabric in the bottom of a pile. It was just enough to make the short version of L.J. Designs Versa Jacket. I've had this pattern for years. Got it before I had a serger, so that tells you how old it is.
It's only 3 pattern pieces and my roadblock is the "decorative serged edge." At this point, perhaps the bias binding would have been a better choice. Because of the way the jacket is constructed, the decorative edge requires changing serger settings and threads at least four times. I found a beautiful, shiny, heavy-weight thread in the same color family to use for the upper looper and fiddled around until I got the look I liked. Then I changed thread and settings for regular sewing. The second time I set up the decorative stitching, the identical settings did not produce the same results. That's where I quit for the evening. There will be more work tonight. That bias binding just might be in my future!
Tuesday, February 12, 2013
Vacation Challenge - Week Two
Week Two is complete and on schedule, now that I've shifted completion day to Monday. My usual photographer is out of town, so I don't have a finished picture yet, but I am amazed at how beautifully the fabric drapes. I will add the picture as soon as I have it.
I checked out the reviews from Pattern Review before starting the dress. There didn't appear to be too many that used the cap sleeve view, so I forged ahead. My one grumble is that the patten description should have mentioned that this view has forward shoulder seams. I caught that in the illustration long after my alterations had been completed. Marking the natural waist on the pattern would also have helped. C'mon, Simplicity! Get with the program!
What changes did I make? According to my moulange, I needed to lengthen the back and the front by 1 1/2 inches; and the front by another 2 inches! That should have alerted me to the forward shoulder seam in the design, but it didn't.
I decided to split the first set of adjustments (the 1 1/2 inches) between the bodice top and the midriff piece. I redrew the back shoulder slope to match my moulange, but I was hesitant with the front as it would have taken about 2 inches out of the armhole. I made a muslin of the bodice, tried it on and decided to split the difference on the front shoulder slope, changing the angle by 1 inch instead of 2.
I changed the location of the center back so I would get more overlap for a bit better coverage. I want to be able to wear a normal bra with this dress! When I tried on the muslin, I discovered I also had to take about 2 inches out of the back midriff piece. I transferred the alterations to my pattern and started the layout and cutting process.
I did some test seam finishes with both my regular machine and my serger and I tried out my Vilene stay tape on a bias edge to see how it would feel when finished. Once I was familiar with my fabric, I was ready to go. I can't emphasize enough how important it is to know how your fabric is going to behave under the needle and under the iron before you begin. You will save yourself a ton of frustration if you play with the fabric ahead of time. Also try out buttonholes, zipper installation, and any new techniques.
This was my first experience with a single knit jersey and you can color me impressed. What a beautiful drape! It all comes from buying quality fabric. On to construction - as Sarah Veblen said, it did take just as much time to grain the fabric as it did to sew. Her Slippery & Drapey Fabric class on Pattern Review was a lifesaver. I never would have thought of patting the fabric into place rather than scooting it!
I added a couple of tweaks during construction that you don't find in most commercial patterns. I stabilized the neckline edges with Vilene bias stay tape cut slightly shorter than the edge and I added a strip of clear elastic to the shouder seams, also cut a smidge shorter than the actual seam. I used my serger to apply the elastic strip. I think a tutorial on that process is in my future. Tricky, but really helpful! I'm also leaving the hem unfinished. I like the way the dress hangs without the added weight of a hem.
What would I do differently? In addition to the Vilene, I would add a piece of clear elastic to the neck edge to snug it up against my chest even more. I would not serge the shoulder seams. The tight gathering wants to creep away from the needle and I haven't mastered the technique for keeping it in place yet.
All in all, a great experience!
I checked out the reviews from Pattern Review before starting the dress. There didn't appear to be too many that used the cap sleeve view, so I forged ahead. My one grumble is that the patten description should have mentioned that this view has forward shoulder seams. I caught that in the illustration long after my alterations had been completed. Marking the natural waist on the pattern would also have helped. C'mon, Simplicity! Get with the program!
What changes did I make? According to my moulange, I needed to lengthen the back and the front by 1 1/2 inches; and the front by another 2 inches! That should have alerted me to the forward shoulder seam in the design, but it didn't.
I decided to split the first set of adjustments (the 1 1/2 inches) between the bodice top and the midriff piece. I redrew the back shoulder slope to match my moulange, but I was hesitant with the front as it would have taken about 2 inches out of the armhole. I made a muslin of the bodice, tried it on and decided to split the difference on the front shoulder slope, changing the angle by 1 inch instead of 2.
I changed the location of the center back so I would get more overlap for a bit better coverage. I want to be able to wear a normal bra with this dress! When I tried on the muslin, I discovered I also had to take about 2 inches out of the back midriff piece. I transferred the alterations to my pattern and started the layout and cutting process.
I did some test seam finishes with both my regular machine and my serger and I tried out my Vilene stay tape on a bias edge to see how it would feel when finished. Once I was familiar with my fabric, I was ready to go. I can't emphasize enough how important it is to know how your fabric is going to behave under the needle and under the iron before you begin. You will save yourself a ton of frustration if you play with the fabric ahead of time. Also try out buttonholes, zipper installation, and any new techniques.
This was my first experience with a single knit jersey and you can color me impressed. What a beautiful drape! It all comes from buying quality fabric. On to construction - as Sarah Veblen said, it did take just as much time to grain the fabric as it did to sew. Her Slippery & Drapey Fabric class on Pattern Review was a lifesaver. I never would have thought of patting the fabric into place rather than scooting it!
I added a couple of tweaks during construction that you don't find in most commercial patterns. I stabilized the neckline edges with Vilene bias stay tape cut slightly shorter than the edge and I added a strip of clear elastic to the shouder seams, also cut a smidge shorter than the actual seam. I used my serger to apply the elastic strip. I think a tutorial on that process is in my future. Tricky, but really helpful! I'm also leaving the hem unfinished. I like the way the dress hangs without the added weight of a hem.
What would I do differently? In addition to the Vilene, I would add a piece of clear elastic to the neck edge to snug it up against my chest even more. I would not serge the shoulder seams. The tight gathering wants to creep away from the needle and I haven't mastered the technique for keeping it in place yet.
All in all, a great experience!
Friday, February 8, 2013
Vacation Challenge - Week One complete
It took until 11 PM Monday, but the top is finished - almost. I discovered when I tried it on that the ruffle is heavy and wants to pull the back neckline down. This makes the back opening gape. I'll be adding a second closure to the back to help that problem a bit. I also need to sew the waistline elastic. At the moment it's using the yo-yo dieter's best friend - the safety pin.
I don't have a lot of in-process photos of the top to share. I was too eager to get it finished on time. Before I started, I traced the size pattern I was using onto tissue. I knew I'd be making alterations and didn't want to ruin the original pattern. That way I can always go back to the drawing board.
I used Lynda Maynard's alteration technique. It was a bit confusing at first, but once I got the idea, the adjustments went well. One thing I did differently was laying my tissue pattern on top of my moulange. I think it's much easier than lifting up the plastic moulange to make changes. Careful measurement showed me I needed to lengthen the pattern above the waist by 1/2 inch and change the angle of the shoulders.Once I did that, I didn't need to move the darts at all. The most common complaint about this pattern on Sewing Pattern Review is that the darts are too low. My length adjustment took care of that. The pattern has different front pieces for "B," "C" and "D" cups, so I didn't need to increase the bust at all.
With the adjustments made, I cut a trial top from similar fabric that had been in my stash forever, possibly inherited from my mom. Whipping it up quickly showed me I needed to narrow the shoulders by about 1/4 inch. They passed my shoulder point by enough that it might have looked like a cut on cap sleeve. I also discovered a case of the dreaded "butt Velcro." My top was hiking up in the back and would have settled itself somewhere around my waist eventually. I pinched out a tuck at center back, increasing the size until the back hung freely, and pinned that in.
To transfer the change to my pattern, I split the tissue horizontally just below the waist from center back to the sideseam, being careful not to cut through the seamline. Then I measured the size of the tuck and raised the center back by that much, making a triangle that tapered to the seamline. It throws the center back off grain below the waist, but that little bit of bias adds some extra swing.
Because I shortened the back, I added the length back at the hemline by measuring down the tucked distance and making a gentle arc that tapered to the sideseam.
I took a bit of time placing the pattern on the fabric. I wanted the pattern to line up horizontally at the hemline. Because it's an all over pattern and quite busy, I didn't worry about trying to match center back. The match across the hemline came out as I anticipated it. The diamonds are not drifting up or down in relation to the hem. If your fabric has a definite geometric aspect, keeping the pattern straight around the hem will be most visually appealing.
As far as sewing goes, I mostly followed the pattern directions. I was skeptical of the armhole finish, but I did it the way the pattern recommended. I won't repeat that. Their directions make for a very bulky finish. I tried to remedy it by topstitching twice, but the edges still want to curl outwards. I will change that finish the next time I make this top. It's a simple, versatile pattern - a wardrobe basic.
I don't have a lot of in-process photos of the top to share. I was too eager to get it finished on time. Before I started, I traced the size pattern I was using onto tissue. I knew I'd be making alterations and didn't want to ruin the original pattern. That way I can always go back to the drawing board.
To transfer the change to my pattern, I split the tissue horizontally just below the waist from center back to the sideseam, being careful not to cut through the seamline. Then I measured the size of the tuck and raised the center back by that much, making a triangle that tapered to the seamline. It throws the center back off grain below the waist, but that little bit of bias adds some extra swing.
Because I shortened the back, I added the length back at the hemline by measuring down the tucked distance and making a gentle arc that tapered to the sideseam.
I took a bit of time placing the pattern on the fabric. I wanted the pattern to line up horizontally at the hemline. Because it's an all over pattern and quite busy, I didn't worry about trying to match center back. The match across the hemline came out as I anticipated it. The diamonds are not drifting up or down in relation to the hem. If your fabric has a definite geometric aspect, keeping the pattern straight around the hem will be most visually appealing.
As far as sewing goes, I mostly followed the pattern directions. I was skeptical of the armhole finish, but I did it the way the pattern recommended. I won't repeat that. Their directions make for a very bulky finish. I tried to remedy it by topstitching twice, but the edges still want to curl outwards. I will change that finish the next time I make this top. It's a simple, versatile pattern - a wardrobe basic.
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| The End Result |
Thursday, February 7, 2013
Mad Men Contest Information
I've decided to compete in Julia Bobbin's Mad Men Dress Challenge and I'm offering my competition dress at a special price to the first taker. The dress will be made to your size, by hand, to Historical Fashion's exacting standards. Fabric is 60% wool, 40% polyester suiting in a plaid similar to the inspiration dress below. The bodice is fully lined; all seams are clean-finished. It features a fitted bodice with a flounce ruffle decoration and a pleated, full-circle skirt. It closes with a back zipper. The finished dress will be hand wash cold or dry clean.
Disclaimers:
Contact me to purchase the dress. There can be only one!
Disclaimers:
- Offer is good until March 8, 2013.
- Offer only for customers able to come to 2-3 fittings in the Greater Cleveland area before April.
- Custom clothing purchase is non-refundable.
- Delivery time is dependent on workload. Dress may not be delivered before end of contest in April.
- Customer agrees to pose for contest entry photo.
- Belt is not included in dress purchase. They may be ordered for an additional charge.
Contact me to purchase the dress. There can be only one!
Monday, February 4, 2013
Vacation Wardrobe Challenge
It's about time I sewed something for myself. And what better reason than my upcoming trip to Cancun to celebrate two years of being married to my soul mate. Actually, I've been sewing instead of exercizing and I can't really fit into any of the honeymoon clothes right now, so new gear is in order.
My objective - 4 pieces in the 4 weeks remaining before departure. Fabric must come from stash! Pieces must coordinate with some existing clothes in turquoise & purple. Must be lightweight, versatile and easy to pack because my goal is a week's worth of everything I need in a carry-on. I will not start my stay with my beach clothing still in Chicago this time!
This is what I have on hand:
My objective - 4 pieces in the 4 weeks remaining before departure. Fabric must come from stash! Pieces must coordinate with some existing clothes in turquoise & purple. Must be lightweight, versatile and easy to pack because my goal is a week's worth of everything I need in a carry-on. I will not start my stay with my beach clothing still in Chicago this time!
This is what I have on hand:
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| Plum skort & ivory top |
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| Add turquoise shirt |
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| Top fabric with golf shorts |
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| Maxi with Pashmina |
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| Pashmina up close |
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| Shorts with light tank & sarong |
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| Dress fabric |
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| Dress fabric up close |
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| Top fabric up close |
I need 2 tops, one a bit fancy and one camp shirt or similar style, a nice dress and a neutral shrug or light cover-up. So far, I have fabric (above) & patterns for the fancy top and the dress.
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The dress, cap-sleeve short version
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The dressy top - View on model
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Sewing Pattern Review rated the patterns among the Best Patterns of the Year, the dress in 2008 and the top in 2010. I still need a camp shirt pattern. I may resize my Kwik Sew men's bowling shirt for that. Then there's the shrug.
So far, I've washed the dress & top fabrics and traced out the top pattern. Friday I redrew the pattern based on the moulange I created in Kenneth King's workshop and made a fitting muslin. If you ever have an opportunity to take one of his in-person classes, jump on it. Otherwise you can be content buying his CDs. My advice - start with The Moulange. I'm using Lynda Maynard's "Demysifying Fit" CD, which takes the moulange and uses it to adjust commercial patterns, to adjust my top.
So far I am very close to on schedule. Only the ruffle & the hem are missing from the top. Check back tomorrow for constructing the top, with a tutorial on drafting a one piece neck facing. Tonight I'll be correcting the dress pattern and doing a step-by-step at the same time. Look for a tutorial on using Lynda Maynard's method, probably after Cancun.
Wednesday, January 23, 2013
Helpful Hints from Ohayocon: A craftsmanship judge's view
This past weekend, I attended my first ever anime convention - Ohayocon in Columbus, Ohio. I certainly jumped into the deep end of the pool, volunteering and judging cosplay at the largest anime con in the state. The onslaught of costumed humanity was a bit overwhelming, but I adjusted and had fun just watching the people in the halls as I bustled back and forth.
My staff assignment was to watch over the cosplay gallery, a display of award-winning costumes or examples of superior craftsmanship. I also ran a repair service that became gradually more popular as the weekend progressed. Word got around and my glue gun was in great demand.
Judging craftsmanship was a daunting experience and I'd like to share my advice with you if you intend to compete in a cosplay competition.
1. Read the rules. If reference pictures are required, bring them. At Ohayocon you instantly lose 1/3 of your points for showing up without references. (This does not apply to original design, although we like to see inspiration pictures & sketches.) Your chances of winning are almost non-existent without your references.
2. On the subject of references, I prefer printed paper over a tablet and images on your cell phone are a pain. And stay away from fan art as references.
3. Be prepared to talk about the construction of your costume - what kind of fabric, why did you choose that particular material, did you purchase anything ready made? The rule is 60% made by you, so it's no sin to admit you bought that perfect medallion online. It's worse to tell us you made it. Believe it or not, we can tell. If you had some help with your sewing, let us know rather than claiming you did it all yourself.
4. Be prepared to be poked and prodded as we examine your costume closely. We will be feeling fabric, lifting hems, moving your wig to see the back of the costume.
5. Trim all loose threads, clip your curves, press your seams open, make sure your zipper isn't puckered. Lack of attention in this area is another HUGE way to lose points. We do grade on a curve and have much higher expectations of Masters than we do of Novices.
6. Press your costume and make sure all "bits" are attached. Getting bunched up in the car is no excuse. Hotels have ironing boards and irons!
7. If you are struggling with props, it is better to buy them or leave them off than to come with a sloppy prop.
8. Pay attention to your wig/hair and makeup.
9. Wear appropriate undergarments. If your outfit needs a petticoat to have the right shape, wear it.
10. Get help with fitting your costume. Poor fit is another big reason for losing points. Make a trial run (muslin) to check and perfect fit.
11. Entering as a group reduces your chance of winning unless all costumes are at the same level of craftsmanship.
12. Never, never, never show up in a purchased costume! If you got it online or in a costume shop, chances are at least one of the judges will have seen that exact costume before. Claiming a bought costume as your own will get you an instant Zero!
The best moment of the contest was when we asked a Novice if she would move up to compete as a Journeyman and she agreed, shyly and a little reluctantly. The look on her face when she won Journeyman class was worth every moment of painful deliberation. Despite all the rough patches, I'm looking forward to next year.
My staff assignment was to watch over the cosplay gallery, a display of award-winning costumes or examples of superior craftsmanship. I also ran a repair service that became gradually more popular as the weekend progressed. Word got around and my glue gun was in great demand.
Judging craftsmanship was a daunting experience and I'd like to share my advice with you if you intend to compete in a cosplay competition.
1. Read the rules. If reference pictures are required, bring them. At Ohayocon you instantly lose 1/3 of your points for showing up without references. (This does not apply to original design, although we like to see inspiration pictures & sketches.) Your chances of winning are almost non-existent without your references.
2. On the subject of references, I prefer printed paper over a tablet and images on your cell phone are a pain. And stay away from fan art as references.
3. Be prepared to talk about the construction of your costume - what kind of fabric, why did you choose that particular material, did you purchase anything ready made? The rule is 60% made by you, so it's no sin to admit you bought that perfect medallion online. It's worse to tell us you made it. Believe it or not, we can tell. If you had some help with your sewing, let us know rather than claiming you did it all yourself.
4. Be prepared to be poked and prodded as we examine your costume closely. We will be feeling fabric, lifting hems, moving your wig to see the back of the costume.
5. Trim all loose threads, clip your curves, press your seams open, make sure your zipper isn't puckered. Lack of attention in this area is another HUGE way to lose points. We do grade on a curve and have much higher expectations of Masters than we do of Novices.
6. Press your costume and make sure all "bits" are attached. Getting bunched up in the car is no excuse. Hotels have ironing boards and irons!
7. If you are struggling with props, it is better to buy them or leave them off than to come with a sloppy prop.
8. Pay attention to your wig/hair and makeup.
9. Wear appropriate undergarments. If your outfit needs a petticoat to have the right shape, wear it.
10. Get help with fitting your costume. Poor fit is another big reason for losing points. Make a trial run (muslin) to check and perfect fit.
11. Entering as a group reduces your chance of winning unless all costumes are at the same level of craftsmanship.
12. Never, never, never show up in a purchased costume! If you got it online or in a costume shop, chances are at least one of the judges will have seen that exact costume before. Claiming a bought costume as your own will get you an instant Zero!
The best moment of the contest was when we asked a Novice if she would move up to compete as a Journeyman and she agreed, shyly and a little reluctantly. The look on her face when she won Journeyman class was worth every moment of painful deliberation. Despite all the rough patches, I'm looking forward to next year.
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